Ranking TOP13 CUCAMELON mouse melon SEEDS attracts Butterflies Bees Birds Poll Factory Price

CUCAMELON mouse melon SEEDS attracts Butterflies Bees Birds Poll
CUCAMELON mouse melon SEEDS attracts Butterflies Bees Birds Poll

We are a URBAN FOOD FOREST in a large subdivision, located on the beautiful Vancouver Island on the Westcoast of Canada. While we started our journey to grow food, it soon became apparent the bees didn#39;t know we were there, so began our journey growing for the Bees, Pollinators, Butterflies, Birds and one of our favorite the Humming birds. Not only are they essential to grow food, they all play an important part in a healthy eco system with in your own yard.

CUCAMELONS Melothria scabra

Cucamelon seeds aka mouse melons, the fruits are amazingly cute and novel. They look like tiny watermelons, but have a very appealing cucumber flavour with slight citrus notes. Eat them fresh or pickle them for a crunchy treat. Harvest them at the 2cm (1quot;) size, before the seeds develop. This is a heat loving tropical plant that is most productive in hot weather or a greenhouse setting. Start the seeds indoors and treat as you would a conventional cucumber seedling.


Dill, Marigolds, Alyssum and Sunflowers are the best companion for cucamelons, they attract beneficial insects, pollinators and repel pests
Marigolds and alyssum act as a mulch under vegetables, helping to retain moisture and repel pests


Though they start out as slow growing, delicate seedlings, cucamelon plants will eventually grow to be huge sprawling vines. They thrive on full sun and hot soils, and in the heat of summer the vines will take over a huge vertical trellis. Cucamelon seeds should be planted about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and take about 7 to 14 days to germinate, depending on temperature. Ideally, they’d be germinated with warm soil A seedling heat mat can ensure success if your seed starting area is cool or drafty.

In the warmest areas, you can direct seed cucamelons outdoors

Season: Warm season
Exposure: Full-sun
Zone: 4-11

Cucumbers need very warm soil to germinate. If direct sowing on the coast, wait until early to mid-June. If weather turns cool and wet after that, just re-sow. Or start transplants indoors in PRO MIX 3-4 weeks before transplanting out into warm soil. If starting indoors, use bottom heat. Transplant when the plants develop their third true leaf. If the plants are too big, they may experience transplant shock. Optimal soil temperature for germination (and transplanting): 15-30°C (60-85°F).

Sow 3-4 seeds 2cm (1″) deep in each spot you want a plant to grow. Thin to the strongest seedling. Space plants 23cm (9″) apart in rows 90cm (36″) apart.

Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Choose a warm, well-drained soil. Raised beds work well. Add diolomite lime and compost or well-rotted manure to the bed and ½-1 cup of complete organic fertilizer mixed into the soil beneath each transplant. Cucumbers are vigorous and need lots of nutrition and water. Use plastic mulch, plant under floating row cover or cloches – anything to warm things up. Once the weather warms up, keep soil evenly moist. When plants begin to flower, remove covers so bees can access the flowers to pollinate. Fruit that is not fully pollinated will be very small and shriveled, and should be removed from the plant. Most varieties should produce fruits until the weather begins to cool down. Keep plants well picked for better production. Try to water the soil only, keeping the leaves as dry as possible.

Almost all cucumbers benefit from being trained onto a trellis of some kind. Some vines can reach 7 or 8 feet in length, so growing them upward onto a trellis makes good use of garden space. Fruits that grow hanging into space tend to be straighter than those that form on the ground.

For a continuous harvest, make successive plantings every 2 to 3 weeks until about 3 months before first fall frost date. You must keep picking the cucumbers regularly, because if they get too big, the plant will stop producing fruit. About 1 month before first frost, start pinching off new flowers so plants channel energy into ripening existing fruit.

Diseases Pests
Several diseases attack cucumbers, but problems with this plant are mostly caused by cultural practices that stress the plants. Make sure you keep the garden clean and tidy, remove diseased material and do not compost unless you’re able to get a hot compost pile going. You must also avoid overwatering and directly spraying water on to the leaves. Plant in a well-drained site and use long crop rotations. Whenever possible, use disease resistant varieties.

If plants get off to a good start, few pests will bother them. If pests are present, young plants are best protected with floating row covers that are removed when flowering starts. Aphids, cutworms and thrips can be a problem. The cucumber beetle causes problems only east of the Rockies.

Sometimes fruit begins to rot on the vine. This is caused by a fungus during periods of high humidity. Pick these fruit off. The situation will improve as the weather improves.

Powdery Mildew – An airborne fungal disease that causes white spots on the leaves at the end of the season. Several home-sprays are said to be somewhat effective. Spray any of the following at 7-10 day intervals. 1tsp baking soda and 1 quart of water with a squirt of dish soap, or 1 part milk to 9 parts of water. You can add a little Kelpman to the mix. Resistant varieties get the mildew just a few days later than the other varieties.
Various wilts cause the vines to wilt and die. Controls are strict sanitation in the garden and greenhouse. Avoid over-watering, plant in well-drained soil, use long rotations, and use disease resistant varieties when available.
Aphids and thrips are indications of plant stress. Before running out to buy an insecticidal soap or other chemical solution begin to solve the problem by trying to figure what the stressors are and dealing with them. Are the plants over or under watered? What fertilizer are you using? Is it a balanced organic fertilizer? Predatory insects will be attracted to the site and will benefit greatly by an interplanting of Sweet Alyssum, dill, or cilantro. Our Crimson and Dutch White Clover planted along pathways between rows is excellent for attracting beneficial insects too. Place shallow dishes of water with small protruding rocks in amongst the cucumbers for beneficial insects to stop and have a drink. They’ll lay more eggs, eat more pests, and be more effective if you provide for their needs right where the problem is at in the garden. Instead of thinking that the solution is to remove the problem, think about what can be done to aid nature in creating a balance.
Cutworms can be handpicked during the day if small pieces of wood or cardboard are laid out near the cucumbers for them to hide under. All the better to find them. Keeping chickens or ducks works too.

Companion Planting
Plant cucumbers beside asparagus, beans, Brassicas, celery, corn, dill, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, peas, radish, and tomatoes. Avoid planting near potatoes and sage. Both corn and sunflowers can act as a trellis for cucumbers to good effect. Dill, marigolds, and alyssum will help cucumbers by attracting predatory insects, and nasturtiums will improve the flavour and growth of cucumbers.


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Ranking TOP13 CUCAMELON mouse melon SEEDS attracts Butterflies Bees Birds Poll Factory Price

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Ranking TOP13 CUCAMELON mouse melon SEEDS attracts Butterflies Bees Birds Poll Factory Price